ENDRIME construct jeans unlike anything we’ve ever seen before!
Most of you have probably heard the saying “the devil is in the details” in connection to denim a thousand times already. That’s because it’s true. And if details are your kind of thing you better take a look at ENDRIME. But what does the brand offer besides untraditional details on their garments? Who better to ask than the founder of the brand, Mohsin Sajid.
As a British-born and London-trained denim enthusiast, Sajid has worked in the denim industry for 12 years. After cutting his teeth at oki-ni, he went on to consult for several established denim brands including Edwin Europe and DKNY Jeans International. Using all his knowledge and experience, Sajid has now created his own brand.
We took a closer look at one of ENDRIME’s signature jeans, the MS0006 Ergonomic Cinch Back Skinny made from a Kaihara selvedge denim. “MS” naturally stands for “Mohsin Sajid”.
Clean and Innovation Construction Is the Goal
The concept behind ENDRIME is to focus on clean construction methods and a modern way of finishing the jeans.
Sajid uses the past without being stuck in it. He explores construction methods and combines industry standards to introduce new standards in unexplored areas in denim design.
ENDRIME doesn’t believe in fast and cheap production methods – and the brand strives to be completely transparent.
The nine key features of the ENDRIME design are:
- Dart manipulation of the yoke seams
- A new cutting method with ENDRIME’s ergonomic 3D knee dart system
- Selvedge indicator that wraps around the waistband
- Exclusively designed all leather-backed hardware
- Leather patches are burnt using a custom branding iron
- Leather patches are sewn on with the top waistband stitch
- Tailored belt loops
- Front pocket bags are stamped with icons of the sewing machines each jean was made on – and a wash record stamp
- Continuous one-piece selvedge flies on all selvedge jeans
ENDRIME is clearly not like all the 5-pocket repro-brands. In fact, most factories find it hard to produce ENDRIME’s designs.
The jeans can be made in Japan upon request by retailers, which naturally affects the price. In Japan, ENDRIME uses the same factory that makes Fundamental Agreement Luxury (FDMTL) and PRPS.
The more complicated styles are made in China at the same Hong Kong-factory that makes Denham. All denim is Japanese though – and patterns are made in London.
The use of a cinch back is a design feature that you do not see that often with contemporary brands nowadays. We love it. The cinch adds that extra classic touch on a modern jean.
As stated above, the leather patch on the back has been stitched in a special way.
Normally, the waistband and the leather patch are sewn on separately. ENDRIME did something else. The top stitch of the waistband runs all the way round integrating the patch. This is why the leather patch is a bit skewed.
Even on the inside ENDRIME jeans are rich with details
The key feature of these jeans is the dart-detailing of the knee. ENDRIME believes that the design of the inside of a garment is just as important as the design of the outside.
By using a fold-and-stitch method, ENDRIME creates this unique detail on each pair. Turned inside out this feature becomes even more apparent. And the front side of the fold is nicely finished with a white piping.
All buttons are custom made and fastened with a piece of leather for higher durability and strength. We’ve seen this technique on several other brands – but using it on all hardware is quite unique.
On both front pocket bags, ENDRIME has printed some useful information.
On the right pocket bag are icons of all the machines used to put the jeans together; on the left pocket bag you can keep track of the wear and wash process.
The Future of ENDRIME is promising
The brand has great potential of becoming a notable player in the denim market – especially targeted at those looking for jeans with a twist of alternative detailing. The details are original and the quality of the fabrics and construction is second to none.
Mohsin Sajid is already touring through Europe to spread the word about the brand. Maybe it will be available at a shop near you in the near future.
For more background information watch this video.
Photography: Michael van Hal (Ouwe Paparazzi Photography).