Now To the Essential Part of the Big John Rare 008; the Denim and How It Fades
Big John was the first producer of selvedge jeans in Japan and they have pulled on their extensive knowledge to create this incredible denim. Each step in the production from the spinning to the weaving and dyeing was developed by the very best artisans in Japan.
A Long Haul Fade, Not At All
The denim itself is an unsanforized 15.5 oz. right hand twill with a beige selvedge ID, a tight weave, and a uniform, deep indigo colour throughout.
Having done the no wash thing with my last pair (a Nudie Average Joe), I didn’t want to go through 18 months of smelly jeans. These saw the water relatively often, having a cold wash with colour fast detergent every couple of months on average. As we have said before here at Denimhunters, this is nothing but a good thing and it will mean your jeans will last longer!
What To Expect In Terms of Shrinkage?
The shrinkage was significant on the first soak and it continued through the first and second wash. Although the waist stretched out again quickly, the length was reduced by a good 5 centimetres (a couple of inches).
On the initial soak, there was little or no indigo and starch loss. My first impression was that these were going to be a long haul to fade. Boy was I wrong! The fading happened almost overnight and within two months people would come up and ask how old they were and how I’d achieved such great fades.
Over the two years I’ve worn them, they were my main jeans – for a time they were out of rotation, but I think there must be a good year and a half of constant wear in them.
So, What Comes After the Perfect Jean?
The Big Johns Rare 008 have been a fantastic project and a testament to Japanese craftsmanship. There is literally nothing I am not thrilled about with them. However, as I said, they are due some rest and relaxation so a new project is already underway.
It was a tough decision finding something I thought could adequately replace these jeans, but I did find a pair. If you have been following me on Instagram you will already know which jeans I’m referring to. If not, check back soon for a rundown on the new jeans and why I chose them.
All there’s left to do now is this: head over to Big John’s website to see the jeans in their new state and check out their fade gallery to see other fantastic examples.
12 comments
This article reads very familiar. Myself I own a lot of jeans and I also have my favourite pair. It is not the most expensive nor the heaviest pair but it is just right, hard to explain.
Great article. I have two pair of Rares. They do wear extremely well. So well, that I purchased the Rare trucker jacket. Tough to find, but worth the effort.
Hi Jeff,
You’re more than welcome to send us pictures of your Rare items to [email protected].
Wow! I can see the relationship between the Rare denim and the owner was so close.
I’m breakin’ in a pair of R009 since 1 year… My favorite!
Hi Evil_OOb
We would love to see what they look like 🙂
Of course! Just take a look at my instagram to have a vision of them!
https://instagram.com/evil_oob/
For the record, I repaired a crotch blow out with selvedge denim from Edwin SEN ^^ If you need more, just tell me!!!!
Great stuff!!
I have the R009 (slim version) and it’s a truly amazing denim! The vintage fade with a green cast is what I like the most! If you want I can share picture of my own pair!
Awesome review! Any idea where to buy these in Berlin?
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Thank you very much for sharing, I learned a lot from your article. Very cool. Thanks. nimabi