And we are back. The journey to your perfect pair of raw (or dry) selvedge denim jeans continues here!
If you cast your mind back, like way back to this time last year, we talked about setting a budget. How the amount of money you were willing to invest would influence all the decisions down the line.
Now we are back and it is time to discuss the second step in finding your perfect pair of selvedge (or selfedge, as it is sometimes known) denim jeans. It is the question of fit.
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Why is this so hard?
For whatever reason, fit seems to be a dark art for most guys. Just taking a glance down the street you will see a lot of really badly fitting denim. However, if you just keep a few simple things in mind, it is actually incredibly simple to get the perfect jeans for your body type, your lifestyle or the look you are going for.
You will find that 99% of us fall into one of two separate categories. Those of us who are looking to emulate a certain look or style and those of us who are looking for the best fitting jeans possible.
Easy as that!
Arguably, the first group of guys are the simpler group to cater for. Perhaps you want to look like a miner from the gold rush. Or maybe you identify with the Rebel Without a Cause and are looking for the jeans James Dean wore in that iconic movie. Even the jeans Marlon Brando wore while giving the counterculture a uniform in The Wild One.
You’re in luck!
If you are after a certain look, you are in luck! If we take Levi’s, with their Levis Vintage Clothing line, they have a range of jeans that represent the archetypes from each epoch of the Levis history. Each defining characteristic and each definitive change in the fit, denim, denim weight or the features of the jeans, they have a jean that actually recreates that.
If we take the Brando jean as an example. You can simply go to a store and pick up 1955 501. The was the jean that Brando wore in The Wild One. Roomier fit, Big E, double arcuate stitching, button fly, high rise and an unsanforized 12oz denim. It is all there for you.
It does not stop at Levi’s
Becuase these fits are so defining in denim lore, there are a plethora of brands out there who put their own spin on these icons. They go back to the originals, put the denim and the construction under the microscope. We are talking: choice of cotton, weave, stitch count, hardware… really every minute detail.
They have taken this and put their own spin on it. This fit can be found in a variety of different types of denim, different features, countries of origin and so on. You are really spoiled for choice.
Arguably, this makes things a little simpler.
That Perfect Pair
But, if you are simply looking for a pair of jeans that is perfect for your lifestyle and your body type. Keeping a few things in mind will ensure you find the perfect fit.
We will take your:
- Body type
- Age (maybe)
Time to get Scientific
There are three different of body types. Ectomorph, mesomorph and endomorph. Basically tall and skinny, average to athletic build and the bigger guys out there.
Our first category of guys is the Ectomorph. This is for you tall skinny guys out there.
The ectomorph is normally categorized by their flatter chest, small shoulders and muscles. It’s the type of guy who can guzzle beer all night and have a kebab on the way home and stay skinny.
Now, the fits you’ll be looking at will be towards the slim, straight leg jeans with a low to medium rise. They will look good on your slender build and are roomy without showing off your slimmer legs.
Some styles you should avoid like the plague would be wide leg and baggy jeans. These will simply look like you are wearing jeans that don’t fit, which you are. Also, skinny jeans will make you look even slimmer and a bit gangly. If you are a bit knock-kneed or bow-legged, this will just serve to exaggerate the problem. Finally, high rise jeans will just make your bum look like it fainted. Best to steer clear.
This is the athlete or towards the athlete, at least. This guy has a slim waist and muscular legs and buttocks. He probably spends too much time at the gym and is secretly wishing he could have a kebab with the endomorph.
For the mesomorph, he’ll be looking for slim, maybe towards regular fitting jeans with either a straight leg or a taper. Mid to low rise, although if you have a particularly pert bum, your arse can end up hanging out of the low-rise jeans. Not the best look.
If you are a mesomorph, what you should stay away from?
- Low rise if the waistband comes anywhere near your ass crack.
- Baggy jeans. No explanation needed. Just stay away
- Regular fits with wide legs. Dad jeans… you ain’t Barak Obama and your bottom half will look bigger than the top.
Now with the Mesomorph, I am going to throw in the guy with the massive thighs. These guys are either professional athletes, if you are, I salute you for getting out of the sweats, or the guy can be heard miles away talking about Cross Fit, cant shut up about Cross Fit. Well, they get to have jeans too.
In the last year or so, many brands are stepping up and making jeans for these guys. Mid to high-rise with a roomy thigh and tapering from the knee down. These jeans look great on these guys and can also be perfect for the stalkier fellow. Look to brands like Leftfield, 3Sixteen and Tellason, they do awesome versions of this fit. Oh, and I think Benzak has also just dropped a similar fit.
And that brings us onto the last body type, The Endomorph. These are the bigger fellows amongst us. So a wide midsection and large thighs, butt and calves. The guy hanging with the Endomorph, laughing at the Mesomorph and all his salads.
Jeans with a higher rise will be your go to. This will flatten the midsection, and tuck in the butt and thighs. Look for a straight cut slightly on the wider side for the sake of comfort.Stay away from the skinny and slim fits. This will just create an imbalance between your lower and upper half. No one wants the muffin top!
Ask yourself some essential questions.
Now, there are some other fits to be mentioned here. They have their place. Very very specific places.
The Skinny Fit.
To pull off this fit you have to ask yourself a couple of questions. Are you a male model with dead shark eyes? Are you a multi-platinum selling rock star?
No? Then you’re not allowed.
The Boot Fit
Another couple of questions. Is it the early naughties? Are you a cowboy? If the answer is no. You’re also not allowed
Last but not least
The baggies. Are you a…. actually fuck it. You’re just not allowed!
So, there you have it guys. Just keep those few important factors in mind and you will easily find the perfect for your body type.
Let’s Get Heavy!
Up next, we will be looking into the heavy subject of denim weight. Stay tuned!